The concept of farm-to-table food owes itself in part to Sue Conley (’75) and Peggy Smith of Cowgirl Creamery. What others did for bread, wine, or beer; they did for cheese. Their award-winning products ignited an artisan cheesemaking movement centered on clean products straight from local farms. Since retiring in early 2021, the Cowgirls have sought to ensure this legacy for the people and places they love, including the University of Tennessee.
“In the American cheese community, there’s a spirit of collaboration that hasn’t wavered. UT and this area have that going for it, too,” said Conley. “It’s an important project. This kind of business helps everybody—the community, farmers, and consumers who want healthy food.”
The project is the UT Creamery, born of their culinary principles and collaborative spirit, restored after more than 30 years, and ensured through their charitable bequests to the university. At a recent taste test, they brought their expertise to bear on UT Creamery ice cream, which will feature at the new storefront at the former Visitors Center on Neyland Drive.
UT Creamery Reimagined
You’ll be able to taste it for yourself at the creamery by summer 2022 (opening date to be announced). There are also plans to offer the ice cream for purchase online by dry-ice shipping. The storefront will sell a variety of flavors, with old standbys like chocolate and vanilla and more adventurous options that students have yet to develop.
“There are great people running things,” said Smith. “It’s wonderful to see the excitement and the collaboration between colleges and their students that make the creamery possible.” From cow to customer, the ice cream comes together through the collaboration of students from the Herbert College of Agriculture (UTIA) and the Rocky Top Institute (RTI), run out of the Department of Retail, Hospitality, and Tourism Management. The former oversees the production of the ice cream and works together with the latter to manage the storefront.
“The UT Creamery gives students hands-on learning and adds to the book knowledge they receive to make them much more marketable employees as they leave the university and start their careers,” said Nathan Miller, UT Creamery co-director.
Clay Johnson (’21), a food science major, helped develop the flavors tested at the event attended by Smith and Conley.
“We tested some vanillas, some orange options, and a pumpkin pie, and pumpkin pie did pretty well,” said Johnson. “It was the first time I had the opportunity to do research and development, to work on a product and refine it, and I’m excited to try it again.”
What don’t we love about UT? I’m glad for the opportunity to give back to my alma mater, where it all started for me and Peggy.
– Sue Conley (’75)
Andrea Ardid-Parry, a senior in retail and consumer science, presented product, marketing, and sales concepts at the taste test event along with other RTI students. The creamery will also sell UT Creamery and Rocky Top branded gift items in addition to its dairy products.
“I was nervous to present what we’d spent all semester working toward,” said Ardid-Parry. “Seeing the creamery for the first time, it surpassed my expectations, and it truly came to life when we got to see the donors’ elated reactions. The experience taught me more about my major, the industry I’ll be working in, and how to handle real-world situations. It’s had a positive impact on my life, and I can’t wait to see what else I’ll learn!”
As a co-director with Miller, Myra Loveday oversees students like Ardid-Parry from RTI at the creamery.
“The UT Creamery showcases how UT positively impacts Tennessee’s agriculture through supporting local, regional, and state dairy farms, and other retail vendors,” said Loveday. “We are grateful to donors like Sue and Peg, who have made this collaboration possible and afforded our students a comprehensive, practical opportunity to work with sustainability-minded suppliers in a variety of industries.”
Cowgirl Culture Beginnings
When asked what it was about UT that motivated them to include the university in their estate plans, Conley simply said, “What don’t we love about UT?”
“I’m glad for the opportunity to give back to my alma mater, where it all started for me and Peggy,” Conley continued.
Both grew up in the Washington, DC, area and met as freshmen at UT. Their fast friendship deepened through work in local restaurants—like the original Ruby Tuesday and a budding Copper Cellar (both launched by UT alumni)—and through a love of sport and Lady Vols basketball.
After college, they embarked on a cross-country road trip in a blue Chevy van complete with hitchhikers, music festivals, and events marking the nation’s bicentennial. Conley attested that the vibe was “more Eagles than Grateful Dead. It was a Chevy, not a Volkswagen!” One of their hitchhiking passengers hosted them in San Francisco, and they never left, falling in love with the burgeoning food scene that they eventually helped to grow.
“We always go to ball games when the Lady Vols play out West,” said Conley. “Our dormmates [at UT] were on the team when Pat Summitt had just started, so we have an emotional connection.”
Smith was a Lady Vol herself, competing in the butterfly on a very young varsity swim team. Sports helped them stay in touch with UT, and support for female student–athletes also features in their charitable bequests, including contributions to the Joan Cronan Lady Vol Graduate Fellowship Endowment.
With their culinary culture growing at UT and provided for in the future, along with their Lady Vols, the Cowgirls can ride easy. Thanks to their current and future support, the torch they have passed will keep burning for years to come.
